Trout Gets SPICY, Just Like Zoey

Few things excite the lovely little lady you see on the left more than some freshly cooked fish. Zoey, my illustrious, 6-toed feline who is quite outspoken, was delighted when she learned that I would be cooking up some delicious fresh trout last night. While she is a bit on the round side (it kind of looks like she swallowed a volleyball), she and I both agree that a bit of oily fish skin every now and then is a perfectly acceptable addition to her diet. The omega-3 fatty acids found in fattier fish like trout and salmon are very good for Zoey's (and my dog, Phyllo's) skin and coat—especially during this cold, dry winter weather. In my experience, the skin is usually not the most appetizing part of fish for humans, so it's no problem handing this treat off to the pets. I highly recommend it to anyone with a cat and/or dog—they'll love it. Zoey's strong passion for food and eating always amazes me, so for this dinner, I let her sassy little attitude be my inspiration: I made it robust and spicy, just like her. Spicy beans and rice—as well some spinach sauteed in garlic and chile—rounded out the meal. Here's a dinner you and your pets can enjoy:

Spiced Trout (or Salmon)

Rubbing the fish with the spices and salt at least one hour in advance creates a lovely crust on the fillet.

1. One to two hours before dinner, place one trout or salmon filet (preferably wild-caught) on a large piece of parchment paper set on a large baking sheet. Into a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, add 1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns, 1/2 teaspoon cumin seed, 1/2 teaspoon coriander seed, 1 crumbled bay leaf, and a pinch each of caraway seed and celery seed. Grind until finely ground; pour into a small bowl and combine with 1 teaspoon salt. Rub the flesh of the fish with 2 teaspoons olive oil. Pour the spice mixture onto the fish and rub to distribute evenly. (Avoid getting the spices onto the skin side, or your pets may not like it.) Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour. 

2. Place an oven rack about 8 inches below the top of the oven. Preheat the broiler. Remove the plastic wrap from the fish and broil for about 10 minutes. (If you have a thick fillet, you may need to turn the oven to about 325 F after broiling to allow it to cook through.) The fish is done when it flakes easily with a fork. Remove the skin and allow it to cool before giving it to your pets.

Spicy Beans and Rice

This is great in combination with the fish, but also makes a satisfying meal on its own.

1. In a small skillet, place 1 teaspoon coriander seeds, 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, and 1/2 of a dried pasilla or ancho chile pepper (broken into small pieces). Turn the heat on to medium-low. Slowly toast the spices until lightly browned and fragrant. Remove from heat and set aside to cool completely.

2. In a medium saucepan, heat 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add one small onion (finely chopped) and 2 cloves of garlic (minced). Cook until the onion is very soft and translucent. Meanwhile place the cooled toasted spices in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Grind until finely ground; add to onion and garlic in the saucepan. Stir in 1 1/2 cups of jasmine or basmati rice. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1 bay leaf, one 15-ounce can of black beans, and 2 1/2 cups of chicken broth. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender. Squeeze a key lime or 1/2 of a regular lime over the rice; fluff with a fork. 

Voila! Eggplant Goes French.

I am a huge fan of the Italian dish, Eggplant Parmesan. With its crispy fried eggplant slices, accented by a sweet tomato sauce, and topped with creamy melted mozzarella, I find it quite irresistible. This weekend, when I was hit with a craving for this delightful vegetable main dish, the only two cheeses I happened to have on hand were Gruyere and Reblochon (a soft, creamy cheese made in Haute Savoie). Both were brought to me from France by my sister. So I decided to use Gruyere in place of the Parmesan and Reblochon in place of the mozzarella. The results were amazingly delicious. Here's my recipe:

Eggplant Gruyere

If you can't find Reblochon cheese, Camembert or Brie would make a suitable substitute.

1. Slice 2 large Japanese eggplants (or 1 large American eggplant) into 1/2 inch slices. Place the slices into a large bowl and toss them with about 1 teaspoon salt. Transfer the slices to a large strainer. Set the strainer over the large bowl and allow to sit for 45 minutes to an hour. You will soon notice the excess liquid draining from the eggplant. 

2. Meanwhile, in the bowl of a food processor, place about 3 cups torn baguette, a handful of parsley, a handful of basil, 4 ounces chopped Gruyere cheese, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Process until finely ground and the bread crumbs turn a greenish hue. Pour into a shallow bowl and set aside.

3. Prepare the tomato sauce: In a medium saucepan, melt 2 tablespoons butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat. Add 1/4 cup finely chopped onion, 2 cloves garlic (minced), a pinch of crushed red pepper, and a pinch of salt. Cook until onions are soft, about 10 to 15 minutes. Add 3 cups canned whole tomatoes (finely chopped) with some of the juice, and 1 tablespoon honey. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Remove from heat. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.

4. After the eggplant has drained for at least 45 minutes, using your hands, squeeze the remaining moisture out of each slice. Place 2 eggs in a small bowl; beat lightly with a fork. Place about 1 cup flour into a small bowl. To fry the eggplant, heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add enough olive oil to thoroughly coat the bottom of the skillet. Coat the eggplant slices with flour, shake off excess, then dip them in the egg, then coat them in the bread crumb mixture. Fry the eggplant slices for about 8 minutes, flipping half way through cooking, until browned on both sides. (You will most likely have to do this in 2 or 3 batches; add more oil if needed.) Drain the fried eggplant on paper towels.

5. Assemble the dish: Preheat oven to 325 F. Pour half of the tomato sauce into a medium to large shallow baking dish. Arrange the fried eggplant slices over the sauce in a shingle-like fashion. Pour the remaining sauce over the eggplant and top with about 6 ounces of sliced reblochon (or Brie or Camembert) cheese. Bake for about 20 to 25 minutes. 

On Second Thought...

After about two days of caring for my newly acquired hens indoors, I realized that keeping chickens inside wasn't the brightest idea I've ever had. Although very cute and sweet, they sure do create quite a mess—and quite an odor. I was constantly cleaning up after them just to keep the smell at a tolerable level. Thankfully, my very handy husband Jay knows how to build a chicken coop rather quickly. So now my girls are now living in a darling little pen outside, just where they belong. Here's another recipe that utilizes Gracie's superb egg-laying skills:

Sunday Morning Breakfast Pizza

This tasty concoction is special enough for Sunday morning, but also makes a satisfying dinner. You'll be amazed at how wonderfully the flavor of the homemade breakfast sausage meshes with the gruyere cheese and white sauce. It's really delicious!

1. In a large bowl, use your hands to mix 1/2 pound fatty ground pork (I ask my butcher to grind me up some pork shoulder), 1/2 teaspoon dried sage (crumbled), 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme, 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon allspice, and a good pinch of freshly grated nutmeg. In a medium skillet, cook the sausage over medium-high heat until browned, breaking it up into small bits as necessary. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.

2. If you have one, place a bread or pizza stone in the oven. Preheat oven to 450 F. On a large piece of parchment paper, roll out enough pizza or bread dough (for a good bread dough recipe, see Step 1 from my post on December 3rd—the Open-Faced Parmesan Bolognese Bread) to make a 12- to 15-inch circle that is about 1/8- to 1/4-inch thick. (I prefer to make the circle quite irregular because it gives the pizza more character.) Rub the whole thing with olive oil and prick it with a fork a few times to avoid big air bubbles in the center of the pizza. Use the parchment paper to transfer the dough to the oven. (If you don't have a bread or pizza stone, place the parchment onto a large baking sheet before putting it in the oven.) Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until it's just beginning to turn golden brown. Remove from oven and let cool a bit.

3. Meanwhile, make the white sauce: In a small saucepan, melt 3 tablespoons butter. Add 2 tablespoons flour and cook and stir over medium heat until the flour begins to smell nutty, about 2 minutes. Add 1 1/4 cups milk, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and a pinch of garlic powder. Whisk until smooth. Continue to cook and stir over medium heat until thick and bubbly. Add a bit of freshly grated nutmeg and remove from heat. 

4. Scramble 2 or 3 eggs in the same skillet in which you browned the sausage. To assemble the pizza, spread the white sauce over the crust. Top with the scrambled egg, the sausage, and then about 2 or 3 ounces of shredded or thinly sliced gruyere cheese. Return to the oven and bake for about 10 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and a bit bubbly in a few places. Let cool 3 minutes before cutting and serving. 

A Tale of Two Hens

Everyone who knows me well knows that I LOVE LOVE LOVE chickens. I grew up with chickens and have always had a very sincere appreciation for these lovely creatures. They are cuddly, fun-loving, and so generously give their owners deliciously fresh eggs almost everyday and ask nothing in return but some kitchen and/or garden scraps and a bit of corn feed and water. Now how could anyone not admire an animal like that?

Yesterday I officially adopted two beautiful cochin hens from my neighbor, Ted, who recently found out that it was illegal to keep chickens at the apartment building where he lives. (He had more than 50!) Luckily, according to city law, Jay and I can have a total of two chickens because we live in a single family house. Due to frigidly cold subzero temperatures, I was obliged to set up a place for the hens to live indoors for a few days. Jay found an old refrigerator box in our basement and, with the help of a trusty roll of duct tape and a utility knife, I easily threw together a lovely temporary living space for the girls. I even topped off the home with a ruffly, lacy bed skirt, as to make it a bit more feminine and homey. They seem to like it very much!

My hens' names are Gracie and Georgia. Gracie is older than Georgia and began laying eggs about a month ago. Georgia hasn't quite become a woman hen yet, but I predict she will start laying in the next two months or so. Last night, using a few of Gracie's delicious eggs, I made a fabulous Spanish-style potato omelet. Thanks to Gracie's hard work laying those eggs—and a few flavorful ingredients—my omelet was totally awesome.

Saffron-Scented Potato-Poblano Omelet

If poblano peppers aren't available at your grocery, you may substitute a red or green bell pepper. 

1. Preheat oven to 350 F. In a medium cast iron skillet or heavy baking dish, stir together 1/4 cup olive oil, about 3 cups thinly sliced potatoes (peel first if you are using russets), 1 poblano pepper (thinly sliced), 1 yellow onion (thinly sliced), 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon each salt and black pepper. Cover and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender; cool for about 10 minutes.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together 4 eggs, a pinch saffron threads (crumbled a little), and a bit of chopped fresh parsley. Pour the warm potato mixture into the eggs; gently stir to distribute egg evenly around the potatoes. Add a little more olive oil to the cast iron skillet if necessary, then pour the potato and egg mixture into the skillet. Return the skillet to the oven and bake for about 20 minutes, or until the whole thing is set. Cool about 5 minutes, cut into wedges, and serve. 

Releasing My Inner Francophile

I have an especially big appreciation for many parts of French culture—particularly the food. This is why it's quite fortunate that my twin, Kristen, is married to a very nice Frenchman, Arnaud (pronouced "Arno"), and lives in France. Among many other things, they bring Jay and I (or we go get) amazing cheeses, liquors, pates, and cardoons (a tasty vegetable that looks like celery but tastes like artichokes—it's nearly impossible to find it in the states unless you grow it yourself). I am very fortunate to have such a solid connection to this wonderful country.

This weekend, I had an irresistible urge to give in to my inner francophile. So Jay and I spent an evening relishing the some of the fine foods from the region of France in which Kristen and Arnaud live, Haute-Savoie. It's located in the French Alps and shares a border with Switzerland—a VERY beautiful area of the world. We roasted chestnuts (les marrons), ate fois gras,and shared a fabulous cheese fondue. It was the perfect way to satisfy my strong craving for French deliciousness. 

Les Marrons

Look for these sweetly delicious nuts in the produce aisle of your supermarket during the wintertime. Use this recipe to make as little or as much as you'd like.

1. Preheat the oven to 350 F. Using a paring knife, carefully cut an X into the flat side of each of the chestnuts. Place the nuts in a cast iron skillet or baking sheet. 

2. Roast the nuts for about 30 minutes, turning them once. They are done when the shell curls up around the X and you can see that the nutmeat is lightly browned. 

Fois Gras with Crackers and Pickles

Fois Gras is made from the liver of a goose that, to put it nicely, has been very well fed. It is quite expensive to purchase the liver by itself in order to make fois gras yourself, so canned prepared fois gras is the really the next best thing. I recommend trying a few different brands until you find one you like best. My sister brought us a very delicious one the last time she visited, but you can purchase canned fois gras at many fine food stores.

The acidity of the pickles is the perfect compliment to the rich but subtle flavor of the fois gras. 

1. Chill one can of fois gras pate for about 30 minutes. Remove the fois gras from the can to a small platter. Arrange crackers (I prefer saltines for their saltiness) and cornichons and/or dill pickles around the fois gras. Serve immediatly.

Cheese Fondue with Caramelized Shallots and Chantarelles

Jay and I were lucky enough to visit Haute Savoie last September, just shortly after the harvesting season for chantarelle mushrooms. While we were there, we did a fondue with Arnaud's parents, and they tossed in some of the recently picked chantarelles. It was amazingly delicious! I happened to have some dried chantarelles on hand, so I opted to include them, along with caramelized shallots, in my fondue. It was truly wonderful.

1. Into a small bowl, place a small handful of dried chantarelle mushrooms. Pour enough boiling water over the mushrooms to cover. Cover the bowl and let steep for about 10 minutes. Remove mushrooms and roughly chop; set aside. In a another small bowl, stir together 2 tablespoons brandy, 1 tablespoon dijon mustard, and a tiny bit of freshly grated nutmeg; set aside. 

2. Dice about 1/2 pound or more of Gruyere cheese and about 1/2 pound of any other cheese you have on hand to equal about 1 pound of cheese total. (You may use all Gruyere cheese, but I think it gives more depth of flavor to add a few others. This time I used about 10 ounces Gruyere, 3 ounces Tomme de Savoie, and 3 ounces provolone, which tasted delicious. I've also used Emmenthaler, Fontina, white Cheddar, Edam, blue cheese, Parmesan, Asiago, and Swiss—all make a tasty fondue.) Tear or chop into bite-size pieces 1 large baguette or 2 small baguettes. Place in a bowl. Set cheese and bread aside.

3. In a small (2 quart) enameled cast iron Dutch oven, melt 1 tablespoon butter. Add 2 shallots (minced) and one smashed clove of garlic. Cook over medium-low heat until the shallot is translucent, lightly browned, and smells sweet. Remove the smashed clove of garlic. To the Dutch oven, add about 1  1/4 cups dry white wine. Raise heat to medium and bring wine mixture to a simmer. Using a wooden spoon to stir in a figure 8, slowly add the cheese by the handful. Continue to stir constantly after each handful until the cheese is mostly melted before adding the next handful. The mixture should remain at a low simmer; adjust heat accordingly. This process should take about 10 to 15 minutes. 

4. After all the cheese is melted, stir in the brandy mixture and the chopped chantarelles. Remove the Dutch oven to a fondue burner with medium heat. Use fondue forks to dip bread pieces into the fondue.

Oh Deer, It's Delicious!

Up until recently, I didn't have much experience cooking with venison. That all changed about a month ago. Paulette, my good friend Matt's mom, is a hunter and she very generously gave me and Jay a whole bunch of venison from a recent hunting trip. There she is with her deer in the photo on the left. How cool is that!? 

So lately I've had a lot of fun in the kitchen experimenting with this unfamiliar but really delicious red meat. I've made chili (twice—it's really good!), lentil soup, kabobs, and steaks. But recently we invited some friends over to enjoy the venison on an indoor grill, Korean style. It was really delicious and a 

whole lot of fun! The method is somewhat similar to fondue bourguignonne, for which you fry small pieces of lean beef in a fondue pot of hot oil. However, for this type of interactive dining, everyone sits around the indoor grill with the raw marinated pieces of meat (venison loin  in this case but you can also use beef), as well as some marinated vegetables, and we simply grill each piece to our own desired doneness. Then we eat the cooked meat and vegetables as we cook more. How awesome is that? If you don't already have an indoor grill, I really recommend getting one—if you're like me, you'll have a lot of fun with it! Here are the marinades I made:

Red Wine and Rosemary Marinade for Venison

Before serving, drain the marinade from the meat and place the meat in a glass container set on a platter of ice at the table. That way, the meat stays at a safe temperature throughout your dinner party. 

1. In a small bowl, stir together 1/4 cup red wine, 1/4 cup olive oil, 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, a splash of  worcestershire sauce, 1 shallot (minced), 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary (or 1 teaspoon dried), 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder, 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon sea salt, and a pinch of ground allspice. 

2. Place the meat in a large resealable plastic bag. Pour the marinade over the meat. Turn the bag to coat. Seal bag, set in a bowl, and chill for at least 2 hours, turning the bag occasionally. 

Sherry-Paprika Vegetable Marinade

You can marinate all kinds of vegetables in this marinade. We used Brussels sprouts, red onion, sweet yellow onion, small sweet peppers, mushrooms, and eggplant.

1. In a small bowl, mix together 3 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tablespoons sherry wine, 2 tablespoons vermouth, 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar, 1 teaspoon sweet Hungarian paprika, 1/2 teaspoon oregano, 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder, 1/4 teaspoon onion powder, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

2. Place the cut-up vegetables in a large resealable plastic bag. Pour the marinade over the vegetables. Turn the bag to coat. Seal bag, set in a bowl, and chill for 1 to 2 hours, turning the bag occasionally.

Cocktails and Meatballs!

There are few foods that are more fun to make—and fun to eat—than spaghetti and meatballs. And when you precede this home-style pasta dish with some colorful, slightly girly cocktails, dinnertime becomes even more fun. Last week when my twin, Kristen, was visiting from France, we prepared a big batch of my classic Italian meatballs, whipped up some passion fruit cocktails, and invited some good friends over. We simply spent the evening hanging around the dinner table talking, eating, and drinking. The entire night was really relaxed and fun: The cocktails were gone before we knew it, the meatballs were a total hit, and the conversation flowed like wine. Here are two recipes that are sure to yield a really good time:

Passion Fruit Martinis

This recipe serves about 5 or 6 friends. If you can't find concentrated passion fruit juice at your regular grocery, look for it at your local Mexican market. 

1. In a large pitcher, reconstitute one 11.5- or 12-ounce can of concentrated passion fruit juice with about 4  1/2 cups water. Add the juice of 2 lemons and about 2 cups vodka (or more if you are feeling saucy) to the pitcher; stir, cover, and chill until ready to serve.

2. Garnish the martini glasses lemon slices and maraschino cherries. Add a few cubes of ice and pour a bit of the maraschino cherry juice into the bottom of each glass. Pour the passion fruit mixture to fill the glasses and serve.

Annie's Classic Italian-Style Meatballs

Below I've included recipes for my for 2 of my favorite homemade sauces to accompany these meatballs. 

1. Into a food processor, add about 1/3 (6 inches or so) of a baguette (torn into small pieces), 1/2 cup milk, 2 shallots (coarsely chopped), 3 cloves garlic (chopped), about 1/2 cup pinenuts (lightly toasted), and a good handful fresh basil or parsley. Cover and process until everything is very finely chopped, about 1 to 2 minutes (the breadcrumbs should turn green from the fresh herb).

 

2. In a large bowl, use your hands to mix together 1 pound ground pork, 1 pound ground chuck, 2 eggs, 1 cup grated parmesan or gruyere cheese, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon ground black pepper, a good sized pinch of crushed red pepper flakes, and the breadcrumb mixture. Form into 2-inch meatballs (or whatever size for which you are in the mood). 

3. In a large skillet, fry the meatballs in 1 to 2 tablespoons hot oil, working in batches, until all of the meatballs are browned on all sides. Add the meatballs to the tomato sauce of your choice (see recipes below). Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for about 1 hour. Serve over hot cooked spaghetti. Top with crumbled or grated parmesan or gruyere cheese.

Smooth Tomato Sauce

1. In a large saucepan, heat 1/4 cup olive oil. Add about 4 cloves garlic (minced) and a pinch of crushed red pepper flakes. Cook until the garlic just begins to brown. Add 2 cups chicken broth, two 12-ounce cans tomato paste, and 2 cups water. Whisk until blended. The sauce should be quite thin (it will thicken to a velvety consistency as it cooks with the meatballs). Add more water if necessary to make a thin consistency. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer about 15 minutes before adding the meatballs. Season to taste with salt, black pepper, and sugar if necessary.

Chunkier Tomato Sauce

1. In a large saucepan, heat 1/4 cup olive oil. Add 3 cloves garlic (minced), 1 onion (finely chopped), and a pinch of crushed red pepper. Cook until the garlic just begins to brown. Drain the juice of two 28-ounce cans whole tomatoes into the saucepan. Chop the tomatoes and add them to the sauce. Whisk in about 2 tablespoons tomato paste. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer about 15 minutes before adding the meatballs. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.